Vibe ChessVibe Chess

A city guide to chess life in Irkutsk

Chess schools, clubs and chess lessons in Irkutsk

A big guide to chess in Irkutsk: where to learn, how to find a coach, a chess club, a tournament or simply somewhere to play. Verified addresses of schools and clubs by district, the Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region, the Irkutsk Open Cup, the Angara Children's Chess League and the history of chess in the city - from Garry Kasparov's historic visit in 1985 to today's Chetyre Ofitsera and Bely Slon branches.

Useful for parents looking for a school for a child and for adults thinking about returning to the board.

In this city

Chess in Irkutsk

The City Chess Club
Krasnoarmeyskaya 9 - the central club venue
Chetyre Ofitsera
A network of 7 chess branches across the city
The Irkutsk Open Cup
A regional classical tournament
The amateur format
Vibe Chess - cafes and bars
10+
chess addresses
1985
Kasparov played in Irkutsk
2010
the Irkutsk City Club opened

One of the notable chess centres of the Angara region

Chess life in Irkutsk rests on the Irkutsk City Chess Club with its central venue at Krasnoarmeyskaya St. 9 and branches at Levitana 18 and Barrikad 135. Among the private network schools is Chetyre Ofitsera with 7 branches from Sovetskaya 87 to Pervomaysky district 14A. The private segment also includes the Bely Slon school at Voronezhskaya St. 2 (at Lyceum No. 1) and the Vunderkind school-studio at Gorkogo St. 36a, which takes children from the age of 3. The region's life is coordinated by the Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region (angarachess.ru) with an office at Baykalskaya St. 37.

A landmark historical event came in 1985: in Irkutsk, at the eighth all-Union tournament of palaces and houses of pioneers, the Irkutsk Palace of Pioneers team was led by two-time USSR champion Lev Psakhis, and in a simultaneous display against Garry Kasparov the Irkutsk seventh-former Natalia Pankratova from school No. 62 secured a draw. In 2021 Irkutsk hosted the Siberian Federal District championship, and in 2023 the inter-regional chess tournament «Territory of the Future», opened by governor Igor Kobzev.

Chess schools and clubs in Irkutsk

The chess addresses of Irkutsk: the municipal Irkutsk City Chess Club with three venues, the Chetyre Ofitsera network with 7 branches, the Bely Slon school at Lyceum No. 1 and the Vunderkind school-studio. Every card is a working organisation with public contact details.

City clubRunning since September 2010

The Irkutsk City Chess Club

Irkutsk: Krasnoarmeyskaya St. 9 (the central venue); Levitana St. 18; Barrikad St. 135
Children and adults - club games and city tournaments, free of charge
+7 (3952) 20-18-28

A network of city chess clubs under the Irkutsk City Sports and Methodology Centre. The central venue (Krasnoarmeyskaya 9) hosts club games and city tournaments. The senior instructor-methodologist is Evgeny Anatolyevich Grudinin, the instructor-methodologist is Dmitry Alexandrovich Obolenskikh and the administrator is Valentina Mikhailovna Mungalova. Open Tue-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00.

Private7 branches in different parts of the city

The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school

Irkutsk: Sovetskaya St. 87 (the main venue); Lermontova St. 81/6; Lermontova St. 81/8; Chekhova St. 10; Baykalskaya St. 263; Pervomaysky district 14A; Ulan-Batorskaya St. 16
Children from 6 and express courses for adults - group and individual lessons, with a free trial
+7 (3952) 61-89-20

A network chess school in Irkutsk with 7 branches. Its coaches hold ranks and arbiter categories. It runs internal tournaments and prepares pupils for city and regional competitions. Open Mon-Sat 9:30-21:00 by prior appointment.

PrivateLessons with international masters and grandmasters are available

The Bely Slon chess school

Irkutsk, Voronezhskaya St. 2 (at Lyceum No. 1)
Children and adults - group, split and individual lessons
+7 (950) 131-03-48

The director is Alexander Ilyin. The school's chief arbiter is Alexander Sidorov. 2025 prices: a group lesson (6-10 people) 3,200 roubles a month (8 lessons), a split lesson (2-3 people) 4,500 roubles a month (3,000 per person for siblings), an individual lesson 8,000 roubles a month. The school runs the «Bely Slon League» in rapid chess. Email: belyislon38@gmail.com.

PrivateAdmission from the age of 3

The Vunderkind chess school-studio

Irkutsk, Gorkogo St. 36a
Children from 3 - group and individual lessons

A chess school-studio in central Irkutsk. One of the few venues in the city that takes children from pre-school age.

Where there is chess near you

Irkutsk has four administrative districts. Below are the chess addresses in those districts where there are confirmed venues.

District
Landmarks
Chess venues
Pravoberezhny
Krasnoarmeyskaya St., Sovetskaya St., Gorkogo St., Chekhova St.
  • The Irkutsk City Chess Club - Krasnoarmeyskaya St. 9
  • The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school - Sovetskaya St. 87
  • The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school - Chekhova St. 10
  • The Vunderkind school-studio - Gorkogo St. 36a
Oktyabrsky
Lermontova St., Baykalskaya St., Voronezhskaya St.
  • The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school - Lermontova St. 81/6 and 81/8
  • The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school - Baykalskaya St. 263
  • The Bely Slon chess school (Lyceum No. 1) - Voronezhskaya St. 2
Sverdlovsky
Levitana St., Ulan-Batorskaya St., the Pervomaysky district
  • The Irkutsk City Chess Club - Levitana St. 18
  • The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school - Ulan-Batorskaya St. 16
  • The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school - Pervomaysky district 14A
Leninsky
Barrikad St.
  • The Irkutsk City Chess Club - Barrikad St. 135

When to start a child, and what to choose

In Irkutsk you can send a child to chess from pre-school age - the Vunderkind school-studio at Gorkogo St. 36a takes children from 3. The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school with 7 branches across the city starts from 6 (the first trial lesson is free). The Bely Slon school at Voronezhskaya St. 2 offers formats from a group lesson of 6-10 to individual lessons with international masters.

What parents should look at: the age and level of the group, the coach, the district, the timetable, whether there is tournament practice, how many children are in the group and what the atmosphere is like at the trial lesson.

What chess gives a child

  • Concentration
    A game is thirty to sixty minutes in a single focus. That is a skill in its own right, and it pays off at school.
  • Understanding consequences
    In chess nothing happens «by accident». A child learns to think a move ahead.
  • Losing calmly
    Arguably more important than the wins. A child learns not to fall apart after a defeat and to try again.
  • A community
    The child gets a circle of peers outside school and the courtyard, with an atmosphere of its own.
  • Tournament experience
    Travel, regulations, playing on the clock - all of it feeds a growing independence.

You can start from scratch, and nobody will laugh

The Irkutsk City Chess Club at Krasnoarmeyskaya St. 9 is the main club venue for casual games and city tournaments. The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school offers express courses for adults, and the Bely Slon school offers individual lessons with the chance to work with masters and grandmasters. The city amateur format Vibe Chess is somewhere you can turn up knowing only the rules.

You do not need a rating or a rank. Nor do you have to join a group - you can work one-to-one, or simply come to club meetups and amateur tournaments. Competitive chess and the amateur format are two different worlds; in the amateur one what counts is not the result but the fact that you turned up.

Lessons at a club or a school

Regular lessons, a programme, a coach - if you want it systematic.

An individual coach

The fastest progress and a flexible timetable. It costs more.

Club meetings

Casual games, company, city tournaments rated and unrated.

Vibe Chess

City amateur tournaments in cafes and bars. No rating requirements.

Online lessons

If travelling is awkward, there are online schools not tied to a city.

Studying on your own

Books, lichess or chess.com, going over your games - alongside the lessons.

How to look for a coach in Irkutsk

We deliberately do not compile a «top coaches in Irkutsk». There is no objective data for a ranking, and subjective selections are often misleading. Criteria for choosing are more use.

The coaches work at the schools and clubs listed above and can be contacted directly through their websites. At the Irkutsk City Chess Club the senior instructor-methodologist is Evgeny Anatolyevich Grudinin and the instructor-methodologist is Dmitry Alexandrovich Obolenskikh. The Bely Slon school (director Alexander Ilyin, chief arbiter Alexander Sidorov) works with coaches of various categories, including international masters and grandmasters in a separate lesson format.

Experience with children

A child needs not the strongest player but the one who can explain. Ask how many children of that age the coach has taught.

Sporting title

Candidate master, master, international master are a guide but not a guarantee. What matters is the title combined with teaching experience.

Experience preparing for tournaments

If the aim is to travel for norms, you need a coach who has taken pupils to tournaments and understands the regulations.

Reviews and recommendations

A live word from parents or adult pupils beats a rating on an aggregator site. Ask friends and the VK groups.

District and format

For a child the journey is a big factor. Sometimes a good coach «right across town» works out worse than an average one round the corner. The alternative is online lessons.

Price

Prices in Irkutsk vary: from 3,200 roubles for a month of group lessons at Bely Slon to 8,000 for a month of individual ones. At Chetyre Ofitsera the first lesson is free.

An individual approach

At a trial lesson the coach should be asking questions about the pupil rather than switching straight into «the programme».

Communication with parents

With a sensible coach it is clear what you are doing, why, and how progress is going. Answers along the lines of «all fine» are a bad sign.

A trial lesson

Never buy a season ticket off a photo and a description. One or two trial lessons are standard.

A guide to chess tuition prices in Irkutsk

The price depends on the school, the format and the coach's title. Below is a guide to the main formats of chess tuition in Irkutsk for 2025-2026. Exact rates are on the schools' own sites.

Bely Slon - group

3,200 roubles / month (8 lessons)

The Bely Slon chess school (Voronezhskaya St. 2 at Lyceum No. 1). A group of 6-10.

Bely Slon - split lesson

4,500 roubles / month

A split for 2-3 people. For siblings it is 3,000 roubles per person.

Bely Slon - individual

8,000 roubles / month

An individual lesson with a coach. Lessons with international masters and grandmasters are available.

Chetyre Ofitsera - trial

free

The first lesson at the Chetyre Ofitsera school is free, so you can try the format and the coach. Book on +7 (3952) 61-89-20.

Chetyre Ofitsera - lessons

as set by the school's price list

Further lessons follow the school's rates. A network of 7 branches across the city: Sovetskaya St. 87 and others.

The Irkutsk City Chess Club

free for participants

The City Sports and Methodology Centre. Club games and city tournaments at Krasnoarmeyskaya 9, Levitana 18 and Barrikad 135.

Vunderkind - from the age of 3

on request

The Vunderkind school-studio at Gorkogo St. 36a. Pre-school admission from the age of 3.

A Vibe Chess amateur tournament

usually from nothing to around 500 roubles / meetup

City chess evenings in cafes and bars. Registration in the Telegram bot.

The Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region

A regional public organisation with an office at Baykalskaya St. 37. Under its auspices come the Irkutsk Open Cup, the Angara Children's Chess League, the regional championships and the regional stages of the Russian Cup. Its information resources are angarachess.ru and regirkchess.ru.

Irkutsk Region CF

The Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region, a regional public organisation

A regional public organisation coordinating chess life in the Irkutsk Region (the Angara area). Under its auspices come the Irkutsk Open Cup in classical chess, the Angara Children's Chess League, the regional championships and the regional stages of the Russian Cup. Its information resources are the portal angarachess.ru and the archive site regirkchess.ru. The federation's Telegram channel is @chess_irkutsk.

Irkutsk, Baykalskaya St. 37

Chess tournaments in Irkutsk

The calendar of regional tournaments is kept by the Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region at angarachess.ru. The archive resource for chess life in the Angara region is regirkchess.ru. The main regular events are the Irkutsk Open Cup in classical chess, the Angara Children's Chess League, the Irkutsk Region championships in classical, rapid and blitz, and the regional stages of the Russian Cup. All rated tournaments can be filtered in the ratings.ruchess.ru system by region 38 (the Irkutsk Region).

AngaraChess.ru - the portal for Irkutsk and the region

The Angara region's chess portal: news, schedule, regulations and tournament registration.

Open it

RegIrkChess.ru - the Angara chess archive

Archives by town and district of the Irkutsk Region, plus the history and regulations of tournaments.

Open it

Russian federation tournaments in the Irkutsk Region

Rated tournaments filtered by region 38 - the Irkutsk Region.

Open it

The Russian federation calendar

All the official national tournaments. Useful for seeing which major events are coming to the region.

Open it

What the formats are

Classical
A time control from sixty minutes a game upwards. Several hours of play and serious analysis. Usually for the sake of a norm.
Rapid
Ten to twenty minutes a game plus an increment (10+5, for instance). Dynamic and exciting, but with plenty of time to think.
Blitz
3+2 or 5+3. Quick games, several in an evening. The favourite format of city tournaments.
Junior tournaments
Age groups and separate regulations. Amateur at the start, ranked events later.
Amateur tournaments
Unrated, or with their own internal scoring. A good way to try the format without committing to the competitive system.
Vibe Chess
City chess evenings in cafes and bars. No pressure, with company and conversation between games.
The city's amateur format

Vibe chess in Irkutsk

Vibe Chess runs city chess evenings in the cafes and bars of Irkutsk. Short games, different opponents, real conversation between rounds. It suits anyone who wants to come back to chess without the atmosphere of an exam or the pressure of competition.

It is not a replacement for the classical schools but an addition to them. After a working week you do not want to sweat over the board - you want a good evening with a game and some interesting people. Vibe Chess has a page of its own for Irkutsk with all the rules of the format.

What a «vibe tournament» means

  • Short games: 3+2 or 5+3.
  • Several rounds in an evening, with different opponents.
  • The levels vary - nobody has to be strong.
  • Between games you can talk and order a coffee or a drink.
  • You can come on your own - that is the normal way of it.
  • Registration and announcements are in the Telegram bot.

The history of chess in Irkutsk

The key dates of Irkutsk chess - from Garry Kasparov's visit to the all-Union tournament of palaces of pioneers in 1985 and the opening of the Irkutsk City Chess Club in 2010 to the 2021 Siberian Federal District championship and the 2023 inter-regional tournament «Territory of the Future».

1985

Irkutsk hosts the eighth all-Union chess tournament of palaces and houses of pioneers for the prizes of Komsomolskaya Pravda. The Irkutsk Palace of Pioneers is led by two-time USSR champion Lev Psakhis; the Irkutsk seventh-former Natalia Pankratova from school No. 62 draws with the reigning challenger Garry Kasparov.

September 2010

The Irkutsk City Chess Club opens (under the Irkutsk City Sports and Methodology Centre). Several club venues have operated in the city ever since.

2021

Irkutsk hosts the Siberian Federal District chess championship - one of the notable regional district events.

2023

The Second Inter-regional chess tournament «Territory of the Future» begins in Irkutsk, opened by the governor of the Irkutsk Region Igor Kobzev.

2025

The Angara region continues to develop mass chess: the «Chess for All» project and series of regional tournaments under the auspices of the Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region and the information portals angarachess.ru and regirkchess.ru.

Notable chess players connected with Irkutsk

Names with a confirmed connection to Irkutsk and the Irkutsk Region. Every card links to the source of the biography.

Alexander Ilyin

- · A chess coach and the director of the Bely Slon school (Irkutsk)
The director and lead coach of Irkutsk's Bely Slon school

The director of the Bely Slon chess school in Irkutsk (Voronezhskaya St. 2). Under his leadership the school is built as an «intellectual club» with group, split and individual lessons; it runs the «Bely Slon League» in rapid chess and brings in international masters and grandmasters to teach.

Source

Dmitry Alexeyevich Trukhin

- · A player with a current FIDE and Russian federation rating
He represents the Irkutsk Region

An Irkutsk player with an active profile in the Russian Chess Federation's rating system. He competes at regional and national tournaments for the Irkutsk Region.

Source

Natalia Pankratova

- · A seventh-former who drew with Garry Kasparov (1985)
A pupil of the Irkutsk Palace of Pioneers and of school No. 62

In 1985 in Irkutsk, at the eighth all-Union tournament of palaces and houses of pioneers for the prizes of the newspaper Komsomolskaya Pravda, the Irkutsk seventh-former Natalia Pankratova from school No. 62 drew with the reigning world championship challenger Garry Kasparov in a simultaneous display. That made her one of the best-known young players in Irkutsk of the period.

A checklist for choosing a chess school

For parents

  • The age and level of the group - will the child land somewhere interesting for them.
  • The coach - do they have experience with children of that age, and do they ask about your child.
  • The district - can you realistically make the journey regularly. If not, online is better.
  • The group's level - is the average level even, or will the child be «the weakest of all».
  • Tournament practice - is there a plan to enter local events.
  • The atmosphere - after the trial lesson the child wants to go again.
  • Price and package - what is included, what is not, and whether there is a trial lesson.
  • The timetable - does it fit around school and other activities.
  • Reviews - live ones are better, not only from an aggregator.

For adults

  • Whether there are adult groups, not only children's.
  • Whether you can come from scratch - literally knowing only the rules.
  • Whether there is a casual-play format, not only lessons.
  • An evening timetable - can you get there after work.
  • Whether the competitive pressure is heavier than you want.
  • Whether there are amateur tournaments - for your own motivation.
  • Whether the format suits you: a group, one-to-one, online or a club.

School, club, coach or tournament - the differences

A chess school
Systematic teaching
A programme, a coach, regular lessons, an assessment and a route to tournaments.
A chess club
Practice and company
A place to play and run into other chess players. In Irkutsk that role is filled by the Irkutsk City Chess Club at Krasnoarmeyskaya St. 9 and its branches at Levitana 18 and Barrikad 135.
A private coach
Individual progress
The fastest progress and a flexible timetable. It costs more than a group. Suits you if you have a specific goal.
A tournament
A test of your skills
Regulations, ratings and norms. The result is honest rather than «how you feel about it».
Vibe Chess (a vibe tournament)
Play, company, a gentle way in
A city meetup in a cafe or a bar. No rating requirements. Suits a beginner and an adult coming back alike.
Online lessons
If travelling is awkward
A flexible format, with the choice of coach not limited by district. Cheaper, and more competition.

Frequently asked questions about chess in Irkutsk

Where can you learn chess in Irkutsk?

The city's main addresses are the Irkutsk City Chess Club (Krasnoarmeyskaya 9; Levitana 18; Barrikad 135), the Chetyre Ofitsera chess school with 7 branches (the main one at Sovetskaya St. 87), the Bely Slon chess school (Voronezhskaya St. 2 at Lyceum No. 1) and the Vunderkind school-studio (Gorkogo St. 36a). The regional federation is the Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region (angarachess.ru).

Which chess schools are there in Irkutsk?

On the city side there is the Irkutsk City Chess Club network with venues on Krasnoarmeyskaya, Levitana and Barrikad. Private: the Chetyre Ofitsera school with 7 branches across the city, the Bely Slon school at Voronezhskaya 2 and the Vunderkind school-studio at Gorkogo 36a.

Where can I find a chess club in Irkutsk near home?

In the Pravoberezhny district there is the Irkutsk City Chess Club (Krasnoarmeyskaya 9), Chetyre Ofitsera (Sovetskaya 87 and Chekhova 10) and the Vunderkind school-studio (Gorkogo 36a). In Oktyabrsky, Chetyre Ofitsera at Lermontova 81/6 and 81/8 and Baykalskaya 263, and Bely Slon at Voronezhskaya 2. In Sverdlovsky, the city club at Levitana 18 and Chetyre Ofitsera at Ulan-Batorskaya 16 and Pervomaysky district 14A. In Leninsky, the city club at Barrikad 135.

Where should I send my child for chess in Irkutsk?

The Vunderkind school-studio at Gorkogo St. 36a takes children from 3. The Chetyre Ofitsera chess school starts from 6 and offers a free trial lesson. The Bely Slon school works with primary-school children and older.

Can an adult start playing chess from scratch?

Yes. The Chetyre Ofitsera school offers express courses for adults. The Irkutsk City Chess Club at Krasnoarmeyskaya 9 hosts club games and city tournaments. The Bely Slon school works with adults in an individual format, with lessons available with international masters and grandmasters. Vibe Chess Irkutsk runs city chess meetups with no rating requirements and no sporting pressure.

How much does a chess coach cost in Irkutsk?

Confirmed 2025 prices at the Bely Slon school: a group lesson (6-10 people) 3,200 roubles a month (8 lessons), a split lesson (2-3 people) 4,500 roubles a month, an individual lesson 8,000 roubles a month. At the Chetyre Ofitsera network the first lesson is free and the rest follows the school's price list. The Irkutsk City Chess Club offers club games and city tournaments as a municipal institution.

Where can I see the tournament calendar for Irkutsk?

The main portal is angarachess.ru (news, schedule, regulations). The archive resource for chess life in the Angara region is regirkchess.ru. The federation's Telegram channel is @chess_irkutsk. The main regular events are the Irkutsk Open Cup in classical chess, the Angara Children's Chess League, the Irkutsk Region championships and the regional stages of the Russian Cup. The national calendar is at ruchess.ru.

Where are official chess competitions held in Irkutsk?

Most regional and city events take place at the Irkutsk City Chess Club at Krasnoarmeyskaya St. 9 and at the Chetyre Ofitsera chess school at Sovetskaya St. 87. In 2021 Irkutsk hosted the Siberian Federal District championship and in 2023 the inter-regional tournament «Territory of the Future».

What is the Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region?

A regional public organisation coordinating chess life in the Angara region. Address: Baykalskaya St. 37, Irkutsk. Its information resources are angarachess.ru and regirkchess.ru. Its Telegram channel is @chess_irkutsk. Under the federation's auspices come the Irkutsk Open Cup, the Children's Chess League, the regional championships and the regional stages of the Russian Cup.

What is the Irkutsk Open Cup?

The Irkutsk Open Cup in classical chess is one of the main regular regional tournaments, held annually under the auspices of the Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region. Announcements and regulations are published on the portal angarachess.ru.

How many branches does the Chetyre Ofitsera school have in Irkutsk?

Seven. The main address is Sovetskaya St. 87. The additional branches are Lermontova St. 81/6 and 81/8; Chekhova St. 10; Baykalskaya St. 263; Pervomaysky district 14A; and Ulan-Batorskaya St. 16. To book a free trial lesson, call +7 (3952) 61-89-20.

What is the difference between a chess school and a chess club?

A school is a system: a programme, a coach, regular lessons, an assessment and a route to tournaments. A club is a place to play, run into other players and get to local tournaments. In Irkutsk the school role is filled by Chetyre Ofitsera and Bely Slon, and the club role by the Irkutsk City Chess Club at Krasnoarmeyskaya 9.

Do I need a rating to play in a tournament?

Amateur meetups and Vibe Chess are unrated and you can turn up from scratch. Tournaments rated by the Russian federation require the player to be registered in the system, through a club or the Chess Federation of the Irkutsk Region. Sporting events with rank norms need a confirmed rank or a permit.

Where can I play chess without the competitive pressure?

Vibe Chess Irkutsk runs city chess meetups in cafes and bars. The games are short (3+2 or 5+3), the levels vary, and nobody judges you after every mistake. Announcements and registration are in the Telegram bot.

Can I come to chess on my own?

Yes, to all of the formats. Most people come to city chess meetups without company - the format connects you through the games. And coming to a school on your own is standard.

Solve a chess puzzle

Mate in one - a real position from a chess database. Solve it and see if you're a fit for us.

Black to move - mate in one. Tap your piece, then the target square
FreeThe tournament app

The app instead of arbiter software

Pairings are computed by bbpPairings, an open-source engine implementing the Dutch system by FIDE rules: score groups, floats on an odd field, colour alternation. Free to use.

  1. 1The event is created in the app in a minute
  2. 2Players register themselves through the link
  3. 3The engine pairs every round, not the organizer
  4. 4The finished tournament exports as a TRF file that arbiter software accepts
  • Swiss system. proper rounds with correct pairings, not random matchups
  • Round robin. a full circle, with the round count derived from the field
  • Free meetup. a light format with no tournament machinery

Fancy trying a vibe chess evening in Irkutsk?

Vibe Chess runs city chess meetups in cafes and bars. No rating requirements and no competitive pressure. It suits you if you are only thinking about coming back to chess, or want to play near home with no commitments.

More about chess in Irkutsk and in other cities

Besides the schools and sections, Irkutsk hosts the informal Vibe Chess evenings - short games and new acquaintances in cafes and bars, where you can turn up knowing only the rules. And below are guides to learning in neighbouring cities and a catalogue of openings for practice on your own.