Rook activity in the endgame is prized above material. Even against rook and two pawns the defending side often saves the game if the rook is active, attacks the pawns and creates counter-threats.
Here White has the king on g4, the rook on a6 and pawns on f4 and h5; Black has the king on g7 and an active rook on b5. White to move, and it is a draw (per the tablebases): the black rook presses on the pawns from the side and stops them advancing.
The lesson: do not rush to score extra pawns as a win. In rook endings an active rook is often compensation enough and a guarantee of the draw.
Drag a piece onto the board, or click a piece and then click the squares. The cross beside the pieces sweeps every piece of that colour off the board, and a single piece can be dragged off the edge.
The pieces will be arranged into the chosen pattern.
It is the mating side to move. Find mate in one.
Openings, endgame positions and breakthrough studies - the set-up appears on the board.
An active rook creates threats and forces the opponent to defend, while an extra pawn with a passive rook often cannot be converted. Hence the saying that all rook endings are drawn.
Look for counterplay: attack their pawns, cut the king off, trade away your weaknesses. Passive defence is the quickest route to defeat.
When the weaker side's king is cut off from the pawn and the rook cannot create threats in time - then the tempo count is on the opponent's side.
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